§11.3.141operiri autem humerum cum toto iugulo non oportet, alioqui amictus fiet angustus et dignitatem, quae est in latitudine pectoris, perdet.
However, it is not proper to cover the shoulder with the whole throat; otherwise the attire will become narrow and lose the dignity which is in the width of the chest.
sinistrum brachium eo usque adlevandum est, ut quasi normalem illum angulum faciat, super quod ora ex toga duplex aequaliter sedeat.
The left arm must be raised to such an extent that it forms, as it were, that right angle, over which the double edge from the toga may sit evenly.
§11.3.142manus non impleatur anulis, praecipue medios articulos non transeuntibus; cuius erit habitus optimus adlevato pollice et digitis leviter inflexis, nisi si libellum tenebit.
The hand should not be filled with rings, especially those not passing the middle joints; its posture will be best with the thumb raised and the fingers slightly bent, unless it holds a notebook.
quod non utique captandum est; videtur enim fateri memoriae diffidentiam et ad multos gestus est impedimento.
Indeed, this should not be sought after; for it seems to confess distrust of memory and is a hindrance to many gestures.
§11.3.143togam veteres ad calceos usque demittebant ut Graeci pallium; idque ut fiat, qui de gestu scripserunt circa tempora illa, Plotius Nigidiusque praecipiunt.
The ancients used to let the toga down as far as the shoes, as the Greeks did the pallium; and that this should be done, Plotius and Nigidius, who wrote about gesture around those times, prescribe.
quo magis miror Plinii Secundi docti hominis et in hoc utique libro paene etiam nimium curiosi persuasionem, qui solitum id facere Ciceronem velandorum varicum gratia tradit; cum hoc amictus genus in statuis eorum quoque, qui post Ciceronem fuerunt, appareat.
By which I wonder the more at the conviction of Plinius Secundus, a learned man and in this book especially almost too curious, who records that Cicero was accustomed to do this for the sake of veiling his varicose veins; although this kind of attire appears also in the statues of those who were after Cicero.
§11.3.144palliolum sicut fascias, quibus crura vestiuntur, et focalia et aurium ligamenta sola excusare potest valetudo.
A small cloak, like the bands with which the shins are clothed, and neckcloths, and ear-bandages, only health can excuse.
sed haec amictus observatio, dum incipimus; procedente vero actu, iam paene ab initio narrationis, sinus ab humero recte velut sponte delabitur, et, cum ad argumenta ac locos ventum est, reicere a sinistro togam, deicere etiam, si haereat, sinum conveniet.
But this observation of dress is for when we begin; but as the action proceeds, already almost from the beginning of the narrative, the fold rightly falls down from the shoulder as if of its own accord, and when we have come to the arguments and places, it will be fitting to throw back the toga from the left shoulder, and even to cast down the fold if it should cling.
§11.3.145laeva a faucibus ac summo pectore abducere licet: ardent enim iam omnia.
It is permitted to draw away the toga with the left hand from the throat and the top of the chest: for indeed all things are now burning.
et ut vox vehementior ac magis varia est, sic amictus quoque habet actum quendam velut proeliantem.
And as the voice is more vehement and more varied, so the attire also has a certain action, as if battling.
§11.3.146itaque ut laevam involvere toga et incingi paene furiosum est, sinum vero in dextrum humerum ab imo reicere solutum ac delicatum, fiuntque adhuc peius aliqua, ita cur laxiorem sinum sinistro brachio non subiciamus? habet enim acre quiddam atque expeditum et calori concitationique non inhabile.
Therefore, just as to wrap the left arm in the toga and to be girt is almost mad, while to throw back the fold onto the right shoulder from the bottom is loose and effeminate, and some things are done even worse; so why should we not place the looser fold under the left arm? For it has something sharp and active, and is not unsuited to heat and excitement.
§11.3.147cum vero magna pars est exhausta orationis, utique adflante fortuna, paene omnia decent, sudor ipse et fatigatio et negligentior amictus et soluta ac velut labens undique toga.
But when a great part of the speech is exhausted, especially with fortune breathing upon us, almost all things are becoming: sweat itself and fatigue and a more negligent attire, and the toga loose and as if slipping off from every side.
§11.3.148quo magis miror hanc quoque succurrisse Plinio curam, ut ita sudario frontem siccari iuberet, ne comae turbarentur, quas componi post paulum, sicuti dignum erat, graviter et severe vetuit.
By which I wonder the more that this care also occurred to Pliny, that he should order the forehead to be dried with a handkerchief in such a way that the hair would not be disheveled, which he shortly after, as was worthy of his gravity and severity, forbade to be rearranged.
mihi vero illae quoque turbatae prae se ferre aliquid adfectus et ipsa oblivione curae huius commendari videntur.
But to me, those disheveled hairs also seem to display some passion, and to be recommended by the very forgetfulness of this care.
§11.3.149at si incipientibus aut paulum progressis decidat toga, non reponere eam prorsus negligentis aut pigri aut quomodo debeat amiciri nescientis est.
But if the toga should fall down for those beginning or who have progressed a little, not to replace it belongs to one who is entirely negligent or lazy, or who does not know how he ought to be dressed.
haec sunt vel illustramenta pronuntiationis vel vitia, quibus propositis multa cogitare debet orator.
These are either the ornaments of delivery or its faults, with which proposed, the orator must think of many things.
§11.3.150primum, quos, apud quos, quibus praesentibus sit acturus.
First, whom, before whom, and in whose presence he is to plead.
nam ut dicere alia aliis et apud alios magis concessum est, sic etiam facere.
For as it is more permitted to say different things to different people and before different audiences, so also is it to do so.
neque eadem in voce, gestu, incessu, apud principem, senatum populum, magistratus, privato, publico iudicio, postulatione, actione similiter decent.
Nor do the same things in voice, gesture, gait, before the emperor, the senate, the people, magistrates, in a private or public trial, in a petition or in an action, similarly become.
quam differentiam subiicere sibi quisque, qui animum intenderit, potest; tum qua de re dicat, et efficere quid velit.
Which difference everyone who directs his mind can apply to himself; then on what matter he speaks, and what he wishes to effect.
§11.3.151rei quadruplex observatio est.
The observation of the matter is fourfold.
una in tota causa.
One is in the whole cause.
sunt enim tristes, hilares, sollicitae, securae, grandes, pusillae, ut vix unquam ita sollicitari partibus earum debeamus, ut non summae meminerimus.
For there are sad, cheerful, anxious, secure, grand, and petty causes, so that we should scarcely ever be so anxious about their parts that we do not remember the whole.
§11.3.152altera, quae est in differentia partium, ut in prooemio, narratione, argumentatione, epilogo.
Another is in the difference of the parts, as in the introduction, narrative, proof, and epilogue.
tertia in sententiis ipsis, in quibus secundum res et adfectus variantur omnia.
A third is in the thoughts themselves, in which all things are varied according to the matters and passions.
quarta in verbis, quorum ut est vitiosa, si efficere omnia velimus, imitatio, ita quibusdam nisi sua natura redditur, vis omnis aufertur.
A fourth is in the words, of which, just as the imitation is faulty if we wish to express everything, so for some, unless their own nature is rendered, all force is taken away.